Guide · 2 min read · Updated 4 October 2026
Lithophane printing guide: photo, thickness and print settings
A lithophane is a thin 3D print that turns into a photo when light shines through it — thick plastic is dark, thin plastic is bright. Getting a good one is mostly about four things: the photo, the thickness range, a handful of slicer settings and the light behind it. Here’s what works.
1. Choose the right photo
- Good contrast and a clear subject: faces, pets, buildings and landscapes with a defined sky work best.
- Crop tightly. Fine detail is lost at lithophane sizes, so fill the frame with the subject.
- Avoid very dark photos. Lift the shadows a little first (for example with photo color grading); pure black areas just become solid plastic.
2. Thickness and size
Two numbers control the contrast: the thinnest part (the brightest areas) and the thickest (the darkest).
| Setting | Good start | Effect |
|---|---|---|
| Thinnest | 0.8 mm | Thinner = brighter highlights, but fragile below ~0.6 mm |
| Thickest | 3.0 mm | Thicker = deeper blacks, but needs a brighter light |
| Width | 100–150 mm | Bigger shows more detail, but prints longer |
| Frame | 3 mm | A solid rim that makes the print stiffer |
Make it in the lithophane maker: drop the photo, choose flat, curved or a cylinder lamp, set these numbers and download the STL or 3MF. The 3D preview shows exactly what will print.
photo → STLLithophane makerMake a lithophane from any photo: flat, curved or a cylinder lamp shade. Set thickness and frame, preview in 3D and download STL or 3MF. Free.3. Slicer settings that matter
- Material: white PLA. Natural or white PETG also works; colours and dark plastics block too much light.
- Infill: 100%. Any gaps show up as a pattern when lit.
- Layer height: 0.12–0.16 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle for smooth gradients.
- Print flat lithophanes standing upright (on their edge) with a brim. The detail is then made by the nozzle moving sideways, which is much finer than layer steps.
- Slow outer walls (around 20–30 mm/s) and no supports.
- No ironing or fuzzy skin — they change the thickness and spoil the image.
Before a big print, check the model in the STL viewer and estimate the filament and cost with the 3D print price calculator.
4. Light it properly
- Warm white LEDs look best; cold white makes skin tones look grey.
- Even light from behind, a few centimetres away. A bare bulb right behind the print makes a hot spot.
- Cylinder lamps: a battery LED tea light (about 38–40 mm wide) needs a circumference of at least about 130 mm — the maker warns you if it’s too narrow.
Troubleshooting
- Image looks washed out: increase the thickest value or use a brighter light.
- Too dark even when lit: reduce the thickest value or brighten the photo.
- Visible lines across the picture: print upright, use thinner layers and slow down.
- Inverted picture: you printed a negative — untick “Negative” in the maker.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best thickness for a lithophane?
0.8 mm minimum and 3 mm maximum is a reliable starting point for white PLA. Go up to 3.5–4 mm for more contrast if your light is strong.
Why print lithophanes vertically?
Standing upright, the brightness detail is formed by the nozzle’s sideways movement instead of by stacked layers, which gives much smoother tones.
Can I print a lithophane on a resin printer?
Yes — use white or clear resin and a thinner range (for example 0.5–2.5 mm), as resin lets through more light.